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The venerable Martinelli winery, one of the iconic
families and longtime growers in Sonoma, has turned out
another impressive group of wines. For starters, the
2008 Chardonnay Martinelli Road (92 Pts) offers a
beautiful nose of citrus blossom, white peaches and
honeysuckle with virtually no noticeable oak. Medium to
full-bodied flavors dominate in this steely, unctuously
textured Chardonnay. It should drink well for 4-6 years
if not longer given how past vintages have evolved. The
light green/gold-colored 2008 Chardonnay Zio Tony
Ranch (95 Pts) reveals more butterscotch, honeyed
mandarin orange, citrus oil, brioche, leesy, waxy notes
along with full-bodied richness and a California style
that mimics a premier cru Meursault with its hazelnut
and subtle smokiness. Drink this stunning Chardonnay
over the next 7-8 years. One of the biggest whites in
terms of alcoholic potency is the 2008 Chardonnay
Lolita Ranch (92 Pts). Aromas of caramelized
oranges, white peaches and honeysuckle jump from the
glass of this light greenish/gold-colored effort. More
glycerin and unctuosity make this slightly more
controversial given its thickness and richness.
Nevertheless, there is zesty acidity and loads of weight
and concentration. This is a classic California
Chardonnay filled with character as well as personality.
It should drink nicely for 5-7 years.
The 2008 Pinot Noir Lolita Ranch's (92 Pts)
medium garnet/ruby hue is followed by a big, sweet kiss
of wild strawberries, forest floor and earth. This
medium to full-bodied, sexy, seductive Pinot possesses
adequate acids, sweet tannins and loads of fruit. It
should drink nicely for 5-6 years or longer. The 2008
Pinot Noir Moonshine Ranch (90 Pts) reveals an
evolved garnet/ruby color as well as a bouquet of ripe
apple skins, plums, sweet cherries and macerated
strawberries. The most alcoholic of these Pinots, if
offers hints of sassafras and beet root vegetables in
its lusty, heady personality. It will undoubtedly be a
"love it or leave it" example of this varietal. Drink it
over then next 5-6 years. The dense plum/ruby/purple
tinged 2008 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch Water Trough
Vineyard (94 Pts) exhibits sweet kirsch, strawberry
and plum fruit as well as a deep, full-bodied mouth
feel. The most backward, concentrated and fullest in
term of intensity, length and again potential, this
impressively endowed 2008 is still young, but
approachable. It should evolve for a decade or more. The
2008 Pinot Noir Zio Tony Ranch (93+ Pts) offers
up notes of sweet plums, apple butter, spice box, herbs
and wild strawberries. Like the Bondi Home Ranch, it is
a youthful, unevolved 2008 that is firm and pure wit
abundant raspberry and black cherry fruit
characteristics. This full-bodied Pinot Noir should
drink nicely for a decade or more.
A tasting at Martinelli is never complete without a look
at their historic Zinfandels. The medium dark
garnet-colored 2008 Zinfandel Vellutini Ranch (92
Pts) reveals peppery incense notes intermixed with
notions of smoked meats, herbs, kirsch, figs and wood
spice. This rich, full-bodied, impressive Zinfandel
should drink well for 8-10 years. The 2008 Zinfandel
Jackass Vineyard (94 Pts) has on of those "wow"
aromatic profiles. Although not saturated in color (it
is dark plum/garnet), it boasts a huge nose of incense,
camphor, smoked meats, herbs, forest floor and jammy
strawberries as well as cherries. Its is a bull-bodied,
dry, textured, classic old style, "packed and stacked"
Zinfandel that, despite its lofty alcohol, is not the
least bit hot. This is stunning stuff from one of the
great historic sites of California. Drink it over the
next 10-15+ years.
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