The Wine Advocate February 2011

  MARTINELLI   2008   CHARDONNAY LOLITA RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $60   WHITE   92  
  MARTINELLI   2008   CHARDONNAY MARTINELLI ROAD   RUSSIAN RIVER   $48   WHITE   92  
  MARTINELLI   2008   CHARDONNAY ZIO TONY RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $50   WHITE   95  
  MARTINELLI   2008   PINOT NOIR BONDI HOME RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $60   RED   94  
  MARTINELLI   2008   PINOT NOIR LOLITA RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $60   RED   92  
  MARTINELLI   2008   PINOT NOIR MOONSHINE RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $60   RED   90  
  MARTINELLI   2008   PINOT NOIR ZIO TONY RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $60   RED   93+
  MARTINELLI   2008   ZINFANDEL JACKASS VINEYARD   RUSSIAN RIVER   $75   RED   94  
  MARTINELLI   2008   ZINFANDEL VELLUTINI RANCH   RUSSIAN RIVER   $50   RED   92  
                             
 

                The venerable Martinelli winery, one of the iconic families and longtime growers in Sonoma, has turned out another impressive group of wines. For starters, the 2008 Chardonnay Martinelli Road (92 Pts) offers a beautiful nose of citrus blossom, white peaches and honeysuckle with virtually no noticeable oak. Medium to full-bodied flavors dominate in this steely, unctuously textured Chardonnay. It should drink well for 4-6 years if not longer given how past vintages have evolved. The light green/gold-colored 2008 Chardonnay Zio Tony Ranch (95 Pts) reveals more butterscotch, honeyed mandarin orange, citrus oil, brioche, leesy, waxy notes along with full-bodied richness and a California style that mimics a premier cru Meursault with its hazelnut and subtle smokiness. Drink this stunning Chardonnay over the next 7-8 years. One of the biggest whites in terms of alcoholic potency is the 2008 Chardonnay Lolita Ranch (92 Pts). Aromas of caramelized oranges, white peaches and honeysuckle jump from the glass of this light greenish/gold-colored effort. More glycerin and unctuosity make this slightly more controversial given its thickness and richness. Nevertheless, there is zesty acidity and loads of weight and concentration. This is a classic California Chardonnay filled with character as well as personality. It should drink nicely for 5-7 years.

                The 2008 Pinot Noir Lolita Ranch's (92 Pts) medium garnet/ruby hue is followed by a big, sweet kiss of wild strawberries, forest floor and earth. This medium to full-bodied, sexy, seductive Pinot possesses adequate acids, sweet tannins and loads of fruit. It should drink nicely for 5-6 years or longer. The 2008 Pinot Noir Moonshine Ranch (90 Pts) reveals an evolved garnet/ruby color as well as a bouquet of ripe apple skins, plums, sweet cherries and macerated strawberries. The most alcoholic of these Pinots, if offers hints of sassafras and beet root vegetables in its lusty, heady personality. It will undoubtedly be a "love it or leave it" example of this varietal. Drink it over then next 5-6 years. The dense plum/ruby/purple tinged 2008 Pinot Noir Bondi Home Ranch Water Trough Vineyard (94 Pts) exhibits sweet kirsch, strawberry and plum fruit as well as a deep, full-bodied mouth feel. The most backward, concentrated and fullest in term of intensity, length and again potential, this impressively endowed 2008 is still young, but approachable. It should evolve for a decade or more. The 2008 Pinot Noir Zio Tony Ranch (93+ Pts) offers up notes of sweet plums, apple butter, spice box, herbs and wild strawberries. Like the Bondi Home Ranch, it is a youthful, unevolved 2008 that is firm and pure wit abundant raspberry and black cherry fruit characteristics. This full-bodied Pinot Noir should drink nicely for a decade or more. 

                A tasting at Martinelli is never complete without a look at their historic Zinfandels. The medium dark garnet-colored 2008 Zinfandel Vellutini Ranch (92 Pts) reveals peppery incense notes intermixed with notions of smoked meats, herbs, kirsch, figs and wood spice. This rich, full-bodied, impressive Zinfandel should drink well for 8-10 years. The 2008 Zinfandel Jackass Vineyard (94 Pts) has on of those "wow" aromatic profiles. Although not saturated in color (it is dark plum/garnet), it boasts a huge nose of incense, camphor, smoked meats, herbs, forest floor and jammy strawberries as well as cherries. Its is a bull-bodied, dry, textured, classic old style, "packed and stacked" Zinfandel that, despite its lofty alcohol, is not the least bit hot. This is stunning stuff from one of the great historic sites of California. Drink it over the next 10-15+ years.